How to Take Amazing Firework Photos
July has arrived, and that means photographers across the country are dreaming about capturing the vibrant firework shows coming up on the 4th. I’m going to tell you everything you need to know to be able to walk away with some special photos of your local display. This is geared towards DSLR and mirrorless cameras, and assumes you have a basic understanding of exposure settings and how to change them on your camera.
Fireworks light up a bridge as spectators look on. Single Exposure: 🔹50mm 🔹 F/8 🔹4 sec. 🔹 ISO 100
Plan a Compelling Composition
Sure, you could just show up at the scene and cross your fingers that you’ll snap some good pics, but doing some advance planning for an image will go a long way in helping you bring home some stunning photos. Shooting exploding fireworks in the sky without any foreground elements usually won’t be especially exciting, so put some time into considering your backdrop. Figure out exactly where the pyrotechnics will be launched from if you can, and then brainstorm possible elements to include. City skylines tend to work great, but sometimes something as simple as a tree can help to form a compelling composition. If you are lucky enough to have a show near a body of water, reflections can yield killer shots. Plan for a good vantage point, and don’t forget to think about possible obstructions, such as power lines, or passersby, though if you spot the right people watching the presentation in awe, they can provide a nice silhouette and a connection to the experience of viewing the spectacle. Also think about whether you want portrait or landscape orientation for your photos. There’s no right or wrong here, it just depends on the end result you’re looking for, and you can even change it up over the course of the display. Your focal length will also be determined by the composition you have in mind, as well as your distance from the launching point. I usually like to get close and shoot at a wide focal length, but there are endless possibilities. Regardless of where you end up positioning yourself, it’s a good idea to arrive well before the show starts, giving yourself time to claim your spot, set up your camera, and ensure you don’t have any unexpected obstacles to work around.
Fireworks with lake reflection. Single Exposure: 🔹18mm 🔹 F/11 🔹5 sec. 🔹 ISO 200
Stability
Since you’ll be doing long exposures, it will be essential to keep the camera stable and as motionless as possible, so a tripod is a necessity. Make sure all those knobs are tightened, and avoid extending the center column if your tripod has one, since it will introduce some instability. Before the show begins, pick an object close to the same distance that the fireworks will be and set your focus on that. It’s ok to use autofocus here, but once you’re locked in, switch to manual so the camera is not trying to adjust it as the night goes on. Do some test shots to make sure you’ve got the composition you want. Now, if you don’t have a tripod afterall, that doesn’t mean you can’t photograph fireworks. You can use your backpack or really anything you can set the camera on to keep it still. Of course, in this scenario you’ll probably have to be low to the ground, which means it will be easier for people or structures to get in the way, and it also won’t be easy to tweak the position of the camera, but at least you don’t have to let lack of a tripod hold you back from getting out there to capture the show.
Double Exposure. Moon and sky: 🔹42mm 🔹 F/11 🔹13 sec. 🔹 ISO 250 Fireworks and city lights: 🔹88mm 🔹 F/11 🔹10 sec. 🔹 ISO 250
Camera settings
As with any type of photo, there aren’t any surefire settings that will ensure the perfect outcome every time, however I can recommend a great starting point and provide pointers for refinements during the show to make sure you get everything just right. For starters, you’ll definitely want to shoot in manual mode. Even newer cameras will likely struggle to pick the right settings automatically with the constantly changing scene, so you want to be in full control. It’s a good idea to check your shots in between exposures, especially towards the beginning of the display, to ensure focus as well as make any necessary adjustments. For ISO, I recommend starting at 100, and bumping up to 200 only if needed. Going any higher can render the fireworks too bright, and the color will not be retained well, leaving you with a bunch of white explosions. For aperture, F9 is a good place to start. Here too, you’ll want to be aware of “blowing out” the streaks. With a wider aperture (lower F value), you’ll get brighter trails, but can also lose some color, and a narrower aperture (higher F value) will give you darker trails, but will generally show colors better. I typically find the right balance somewhere between F7 and F11, but don’t be afraid to review and refine. As previously mentioned, your focal length will depend on your distance from the show and the desired composition, but don’t be afraid to experiment with your zoom throughout the display. Lastly, we need to talk about shutter speed, and that deserves of its own section!
Single Exposure:🔹14mm 🔹 F/13 🔹14 sec. 🔹 ISO 160
Shutter Speed and using a Remote Shutter
For me, this is the funnest part of capturing a fireworks display. Because the “density” of fireworks is constantly changing, I prefer having full control over the length of each exposure. To do this, you’ll want to set your camera to “Bulb” mode. You can usually get there by setting the exposure as long as it will go, often 30 seconds, and just beyond that it will switch to bulb. Getting there may vary for your camera though, so if you don’t see that, refer to your camera's manual or do a quick internet search to find how to enable it for yours. With bulb mode enabled, instead of your shutter being open for a specified time, it will stay open as long as you are holding down the shutter release button, so for each and every shot you get to pick when the exposure begins, and when it ends. Of course, if you’re holding down the shutter button, you’re introducing movement and vibration to the camera, which we want to avoid. To get around this, you should use a remote shutter, since it will allow you to take photos without touching the camera. Some newer cameras allow you to download an app to your phone and you can control the shutter from there. There are also wired remotes (“cable release”) or wireless remotes. Your best bet is to do an internet search for “Remote shutter” along with the name of your camera to find compatible options. Regardless of which type you use, you should test it out in advance to make sure it works as expected.
Shutter speed for fireworks will usually be good at anywhere from 2-10 seconds or even beyond, but it will completely depend on how many are going off at the time. This is where the fun comes in - I love listening and watching carefully as the fireworks are launched, trying to predict when and where they’ll explode, and basing my exposure on that to get the desired result. I like to start exposures right when I hear a few launched, that way the trails appear all the way from the ground up to the explosion, but the beauty of having full control is you can do it exactly how you want, and experiment with a variety of shutter speeds. Keep in mind that you generally will want to avoid having a bunch of fireworks really close to each other in the same exposure, as this can lead to a brightly cluttered image.
Single Exposure:🔹50mm 🔹 F/8🔹17 sec. 🔹 ISO 400
Other Considerations and Tips
🌑 Don’t forget your spare battery, memory card, and headlamp if you’ll be in an area without lights, and optional if you so please, a chair.
🌑 Review your images every once and while to ensure you’re getting a good exposure and make adjustments as necessary. It’s worth the sacrifice to miss a few explosions to make sure your photos are coming out.
🌑 While using a remote shutter is ideal, it’s not required. You can instead use the 2-second timer with a shutter speed between 3 and 7 seconds. Timing will be trickier, but you’ll definitely be able to come away with some good images, even if you just shoot constantly.
🌑 Some may wonder if they should use “Long Exposure Noise Reduction”. Without diving into details, I’ll just say that I recommend turning it OFF. If it’s on, you’ll only end up being able to take half as many photos throughout the show compared to if you aren’t using it. Do an internet search to find out how to ensure it’s turned off for your specific camera.
🌑 Turn off image stabilization. It is not really necessary unless you are handholding your camera, and can cause problems if used when on a tripod. You may have a toggle for it on your lens, so make sure it’s off there, but you may also have an in-camera setting for it, so check for yours.
🌑 Don’t use flash
🌑 Use Auto white balance
🌑 Shoot in RAW
🌑 It’s okay to underexpose a little. If you’re overexposed, you may not retain much of the colors of the fireworks, and you’ll be left with mostly white explosions.
🌑 It may be tempting to expose for the entire grand finale, but you’ll more than likely end up with a completely blown out image doing that, especially with “streamers” and fireworks exploding over and over again in the same place in the sky.
🌑 Want to try for some abstract images? Experiment with changing your zoom and\or moving or jiggling the camera in different ways while exposing.
Double Exposure. Moon: 🔹550mm🔹F/10.0🔹1/200 sec.🔹ISO 160
Fireworks: 🔹25mm🔹F/11🔹10 sec.🔹ISO 160
Capturing photographs of fireworks may seem intimidating at first, but if you plan ahead and follow these tips, you’ll definitely be able to come away with some eye-catching images. If you have any questions or additional tips please throw them in the comments. Also, I’ll soon be sending out my e-mail newsletter which will include a couple of advanced tips, including how to include the crescent moon in your photos this 4th, so if you’re interested in that be sure to sign up at the bottom of the page. Happy shooting!
